Few wall treatments deliver the combination of visual impact, relatively simple installation, and budget-friendliness that shiplap provides. A full accent wall in shiplap can be completed for $200–$500 in materials and a weekend of focused work — making it one of the best DIY value propositions in home renovation.
Authentic shiplap is a rabbeted board where the edges overlap to form a tight, interlocking joint. For interior accent walls, most homeowners use 1×6 or 1×8 pine boards (without the authentic shiplap profile) with a consistent nickel-sized gap between boards to simulate the shiplap look. The result is visually identical and significantly less expensive than milled shiplap.
Choose Your Material
Standard 1×6 or 1×8 whitewood or pine boards from a home improvement store are the most cost-effective option and take paint beautifully. Pre-primed MDF shiplap boards are available from some suppliers and eliminate the priming step. Authentic shiplap (with rabbeted edges) is available at lumber yards and creates a slightly more refined look. For a rustic, texture-forward result, reclaimed wood or rough-sawn boards add character that new lumber cannot replicate. For bathrooms or moisture-prone areas, consider PVC shiplap board, which is fully waterproof.
Calculate Your Materials
Measure your wall’s square footage and add 10% for waste and cuts. For 1×6 boards (which have an actual width of 5.5 inches), divide the wall height by 5.5 plus your desired gap (typically 0.25 inch for a nickel) to determine the number of rows required. For a standard 8-foot ceiling, you’ll need approximately 17 rows of 1×6 with a quarter-inch gap. Purchase boards in the longest length available to minimize end joints within a single row.
Prepare the Wall and Mark Reference Lines
Locate all wall studs using a stud finder and mark their positions lightly in pencil — you’ll need to nail through the boards into studs for proper attachment. If the wall has any significant imperfections, skim coat with joint compound and sand smooth before beginning. Use a level to snap a chalk line for the first board — this line must be perfectly level regardless of whether your floor is level, because all subsequent rows stack off it.
- Mark stud locations clearly from floor to ceiling before any boards go up
- Locate and mark electrical outlets — boards will need to be notched around them
- Pre-paint or prime boards before installation for easier coverage at edges and gaps
- Acclimate boards in the room for 48 hours before installation to reduce post-installation movement
Install the First Row and Work Upward
Start from the bottom of the wall (or from a level reference line if the floor is not level). Use a penny or nickel as a consistent spacer between rows — simply rest it on the top edge of the installed board before placing the next one. Nail through each board at every stud location using a finish nailer with 2-inch nails; two nails per stud crossing provides maximum security. Stagger end joints by at least two stud bays between adjacent rows for structural and visual reasons.
Handle Outlets and Switches
For electrical outlets mid-wall, use a jab saw or oscillating tool to notch the board around the box. Install outlet extenders (box extenders) to bring the outlet flush with the new wall surface — the boards add thickness, and all outlets must be flush with or slightly proud of the finished wall surface per electrical code.
Finishing: Caulk, Paint, and Trim
Once all boards are installed, fill nail holes with paintable latex caulk or wood filler, and caulk where the shiplap meets adjacent surfaces (ceiling, floor trim, side walls). Apply two coats of your chosen finish paint with a roller for the field and a brush for the gaps between boards. Reinstall baseboards and any outlet covers to complete the installation.
A well-executed shiplap wall is a genuinely beautiful architectural feature that adds warmth and character to any room — and the satisfaction of having built it yourself makes it even better.
